PUT U IZRAEL

Moj put u Izrael 2015

Izrael. Ova reč ne zvuči na isto kada je pročitaju  dve različite osobe. Svako je izgovara na različit način. Jednom rečju regija koja ne prašta neupućenost u područje istorije, religije i filozofije (sve se nadam da se u nekoj nisam prošvercao:) ). Obično će ljudima prvo na pamet pasti da sam religiozan ali ta priča pada u vodu. Za sve druge ova destinacija je gubljenje dragocenog vremena koje su mogli da utroše na neku drugi način a koji bi ih više učinio srećnima.

Mogu slobodno da kažem da duže od jedno deset godina sanjam da posetim Izrael. Posle putovanja u ovu zemlju tako jakih kontrasta mogu slobodno da kažem, da me više ni jedna destinacija na svetu  ne interesuje sa tolikim žarom i sa tolikim magnetizmom kao .... Izrael.

Posle toliko vremena, kockice su se poklopile. Našao sa jeftin (prejeftin) let, viza za Izrael nam više nije bila potrebna, dobio sam slobodne dane na poslu u periodu koji mi je najviše odgovarao, smatrao sam da sam konačno dovoljno pripremljen da bi sa razumevanjem posetio svako mesto koje me je interesovalo na ovom putu i što je možda i najbitnije Tanja mi je dala dopuštenje da odem na ovo kratko putovanje sam iz dovoljno razumljivih razloga.

Naravno izčitavanje stranica i stranica putopisa, blogova i raznih tuđih proživljenih iskustava je bilo od presudnog značaja za mnoge upitne situacije u kojima sam se nalazio. Putovanje u nepoznato a pogotovo na destinacije koje vas toliko interesuju do sitnih detalja gotovo je do pola upropašćeno ukoliko se dobro ne pripremite na sve što možete naleteti a pre samog polaska.

Pre polaska

Duže vreme sam pratio cene karata koje je Wizzair nudio za letove iz Budipešte za Tel Aviv. Osećao sam da ovu priliku ne smem da propustim i naravno ubo sam. Mesec dana pre polaska kupio sam preko njihovog sajta povratnu kartu Budapest-Tel Aviv za 99 € sve sa taksama.Nemereš belivit. Povratna karta za linijski taxi od Novog Sada do aerodroma je 50 €. Let je bio 26.05. u 16:40h.

Dan polaska - let

Kako sam i pre putovao sa Wizzair-om i koristio usluge linijskog taxi prevoza do Pešte manje više sve mi je bilo jasno kao na dlanu šta da očekujem do samog uzletanja. Za nešto jače od 3 sata stigli smo na aerodrom i pred sobom sam imao podosta vremena pre poletanja. Za to vreme sam ubio još koji sendvič koji sam poneo jer ga svakako nisam mogao nositi dalje posle provera i uživao uz književno štivo koje sam poneo ako mi se dese vremenske crne rupe kao npr. ova. Pasoške i carinske formalnosti su manje više bile klasika i sa zakašenjem od 10-tak minuta avion je poleteo put jugoistoka put Bliskog istoka. Ovo je bio moj zvanično drugi put da posećujem ovaj deo sveta posle putovanja u Siriju iz 2010 godine (o da samo nekoliko meseci pre početka sukoba). Nakom leta koji je trajao 3 sata počela su da se kroz mračne oblake naziru svetla Tel Aviva. Ovaj prizor je bio unforgetable za mene. Bio je to onaj osećaj “when the dreams become true”. Avion se spuštao sve niže i niže, sada je već mogao da se prati saobraćaj na zemlji. Točkovi viona su dodirnuli tlo a ja sam .....bio presrećan i preuzbuđen. Dodirnuli smo Izrael.

Sletanje - izraelska granična policija

Kratkotrajno tumaranje kroz vijugave hodnike aerodroma Ben Gurion dovelo me je do dugoisčekivanog iskustva zvanog „ozloglašena izraelska pasoška kontrola“. Ovo je gotovo bila jedina vrsta problematike koja je u većoj ili manjoj meri mogla da mi usere put. Na nju sam pomišljao od momenta kada su točkovi aviona dodirnuli tlo pa I mnogo pre. Izčitavanjem blogova, foruma i putopisa na temu putovanja u Svetu zemlju tema koja se najviše provlači je svakako procedura uzlaska i izlaska iz zemlje i iskustva sa pasoškom kontrolom. Koga interesuju detaljnije informacije jer bi o ovome mogao pisati danima poklonići vam link u nastavku koji će vam ukratko reći dosta pa ko bude putovao da zna. http://www.klubputnika.org/forum/topic/1461-izrael/page-11

Svakako da sam sa razlogom zbog toga bio uzfrkisan jer mi se nikako pre vremena nije gledao Budimpeštanski aerodrom odnosno vraćanje prvim letom nazad da ne kažem deportovanjem ili ne daj bože zabranom ulaska u zemljuna 10 godina kako Izraelci vole da te počaste ako im se čak i malo ne svidiš. Nalazio sam se u holu ka kome su se slivali putnici sa svih strana aerodroma a koji su tek pristigli. Hol je bio haotično nabacan ljudima. Na levoj strani su bili šalteri namenjeni za prolazak izraelskih državljana a sa desne strane šalteri za prolazak stranih državljana. Putnici su u proseku za svakim šalterom stajali 10 min po mojoj ličnoj proceni. Prema kategorizacijama koje sam imao prilike da spoznam čitajući iskustva raznih ljudi moje slabe tačke pred carinom su bile te što sam muško, strani državljanin, backpacker turista, egipatski pečat i viza i sirijski pečat i viza u starom pasošu (ali ... ništa me ne bi čudilo da znaju i za njega), couch surfing smeštaj i naravno svega 20-tak € po danu boravka u jednoj od najskupljih zemalja na kugli zemaljskoj. To što ja imam besplatan smeštaj a posle će se ispostaviti i hranu to se njih gotovo u opšte ne interesuje. Moja jedina jaka tačka je bila da nisam imao šta da krijem, muljam ili lažem. Za svakog punika koji se pojavljivao na šalteru, al za svakog službenica je okretala telefon i proveravala šta ti ja znam šta i kod koga. Konačno je došao red i na mene. Imao sam sreće, nabasao sam na ženskog službenika. Pošto sam u bacanju spike i kamufliranju u malu ovčicu oduvek bio oskarovac ispalo je bolje od najboljeg nego što sam mislio da će biti. Moje zadržavanje po mom subjektivnom osećaju nije trajalo duže od 30 sekundi. Kako sam u startu krenuo da se „blaženo“ smeškam ona je uzvratila na identičan način tako da smo brzo proleteli kroz pitanja tipa, koja je vaša svrha putovanja, da li je ovo vaša prva poseta Izraelu, koliko dana nameravate da ostanete, gde ste planirali da odsednete i da li ste oženjeni (poslednje pitanje je bilo iznenadjujuće ali cenim da je možda na taj način želela da čuje da li ću slagati jer sam imao burmu – who knows). Sve u svemu, Izraelci ne lupaju pečate na ulazku ili izlasku iz zemlje iz razloga što se posle toga možeš pozdraviti sa dole obeleženim zemljama ukoliko želiš da putuješ u njih.Umesto pečata dobio sam elektronsko dopuštenje za ulazak u zemlju.Karticu nakon dobijanja prislanjaš na elektronska vrata koja je očitavaju nakon čega ulazite u zemlju.

Dolazak

Izlazak iz aerodroma je kao i obično predstavljao ulazak u autobusku ili železničku stanicu. Kako sam uveliko bio upućen gde trebam da idem i šta trebam da radim u širokom luku sam zaobišao menjačnicu koja je ni manje ni više umesto regularnog kursa od 4,3 za 1 eura davala 2,9 izraelskih šekela. Katastrofa. Produžio sam na terminal za voz za Tel Aviv i železnički stanicu Hahagana.

Kartu sam kupio na automatu uz pomoć visa kartice. Destinacija je udaljena svega 16-tak km a cena karte je bila svega 450din. Inače je prevoz ubedljivo najjeftinija stvar ovde. Eh kada bi i hrana koštala toliko. Voz sam čekao oko 30min za to vreme sam uspeo čak i da napunim malo telefon na neku utičnicu. Vreme je čak i u to večernje doba bilo pretoplo. Vožnja je bila brzna, svega 20-tak minuta. Stanica Hahagana se posle ispostavlia kao najružniji i najmanje bezbedan deo Tel Aviva. Sve me je podsećalo na crnačke četvrti Bruklina ili Bronksa. Naravno sve je tako samo delovalo Izrael je zapravo veoma siguran. U napred sam se kao i obično debelo pripremio za sve opcije tako da sam imao detaljnu ištampanu mapu kako da nadjem mog prvog hostera Toma koji je živeo na recimo 3km severo-zapadno od stanice nedaleko od obale. Ubrzo nakon ostavljanja stanice za sobom i celog tog dela grada, ispred mene iskočio verovatno najlepši deo grada sa malim uskim ulicama i sa druge strane širokim bulevarima. Sve me je podsećalo na Šanzelize i nekakav Pariz. Bio je i dalje jako toplo. Snalaženje sa tačnom rutom ulica je bilo zastrašujuće jednostavno. Tako da sam za neverovatnih tipa 30min u gradu u kome sam prvi put prešao 3km i došao do Tomove zgrade. U poruci je pisalo stan 12 na koje sam dugme na interfonu i pozvonio čuo se glas mog hostera „Did you come finally?“ sa blagim osmehom i zvuk otvaranja vrata.

Tel Aviv – Tom

Posle kratkog upoznavanja konačno sam se dovukao do voljenog tuša jer je svakako bilo 23:30 po Izraelskom vremenu. Čovek me posle ponudio nekom klopom tipa ala pasta, bacili tu neku spiku. Čovek faktički još uvek studira zapravo specijalizira biologiju neka vrsta zaboravio sam. Posle vežbi koje svaki radni dan radi tipa po 6 sati ide honorarno da radi u Radiju Tel Aviv pušta mjuzu od 15h do 16h. On otišo u svoju sobu meni pomogao da namestim krevet u dnevnoj i bliskoistočno kuntanje je moglo da počne. Kuntanje je bilo očajno ....što zbog toplote, što zbog mog uzbuđenja, što zbog toga što su krenuli veoma rano da se dernjaju one jutarnje ptice a uz to i mačke i na posletku sam malte ne dočekao i prvu smenu djubretara koja se nije ustručavala da pravi galamu. Nakon ustajanja oko 9h izlazim napolje sa svojim Tomom. Čovek mi je pokazao najbolju menjačnicu, i mesta gde bi se moga snabdeti sa nekom klopom. Koliko god da je Izrael nešto sasvim drugo u odnosu na ostatak Bliskog istoka sukovi su itekako prisutni u odredjenim kvartovima. Čovek je nakon toga otišao na fakultet i na radio a ja sam otišao u „SVUDA“ J. Kako je najavljena temperatura za taj dan bila neverovatnih 43 °C a kako je Tel Aviv svakako bio moja tek tranzitna destinacija u gradu je najinteresantije bilo na plaži koja se protezala kilometrima.  Podsećala je na Baywatch u LA-u. Asfalt je pod nogama goreo što se da uočii iz mojih novokupljenih japanki koje su se tako reći gotovo istopile. Više puta sam se svakako ubacio u more. Voda je bila odlična. Vreme do ponovnog susreta sa hosterom Tomom sam proveo u glavnom u potrazi za hranom. Izrael spada u grupu 5 najskupljih zemalja na svetu. Kada kažem cene prvenstveno mislim na hranu i šiće. Transport je jedna od retkih stvari koja nije preterano skupa. Iznajmljivanje stanova je u rangu cena kao u Parizu. Računi takodje. Kafa ispod 5 eura može da se sanja. Pivo takođe. Hamburger, pita giros ili šta slično je 10 eura. Čak su i suveniri tipa magnet za frižider, 5 eura najjeftinije moguće. Kako sam se pre puta detaljno podkovao informacijama sa raznoraznih foruma i blogova, znao sam da za te stvari trebam da čekam Palestinu jer su tamo takve stvari duplo jeftinije. Sve u svemu - Tel Aviv je (pre)moderan grad zapadnjačkog stila koji se po mnogo čemu razlikuje od Jerusalima. Tel Aviv broji tipa 400.000 a Jerusalim 700.000 stanovnika. Oko 4h našao sam se sa Tomom kod kuće. Bistrili smo sve one teme koje su me interesovale vezano za ovo područje a koje se ne mogu saznati preko novina, televizije ili sličnih mas medija. Otišli smo na najbolji i najpovoljniji humus u celom gradu jer sam se žalio da nisam uspeo da ga pronađem a i da sam ga jeo pre koju godinu i da je bio očajan. Ovaj je bio hrh vrhova i žao mi je što ga nisam uslikao. Tom je insistirao da plati pa ne znam koliko je koštao ali predpostavljam da je bio povoljan jer restoran izgledao kao da u njega svraća samo domaća raja. To može samo couch surfing : ) Imam osećaj da sam ga malo previše iscedio ali na tu moju opasku čovek se samo nasmejao i odmahnuo rukom. Čovek mi se čini pomalo kao neki tajni agent u službi Mosada. Pozvao me je da zajedno sa njegovom prijateljima večeras izađemo što sam ja svakako prihvatio. Ubrzo smo se našli sa  Yasy i Mely, Tomovim prijateljima svežim bračnim parom. Ona rodjena jevrejka u Izraelu on jevrejin sa područja bivšeg SSSR-a. U razgovoru sa ovom specifičnom devojkom izraelskim patriot-nacionalistom saznao sam mnogo štošta što nisam ni stigao sa Tomom da razbistrim a čini mi se iz ovog ugla da sam preko ove devojke dobio najbolji osećaj bliskoistočnog sukoba iz jevrejskog ugla. Izraelski premije Benjamin Netaniahy ili ti kako ga izraelci zovu Bi-bo ili ti „kralj Izraela“ jer je večno na vlasti i pogotovo ga mladji izraelci smatraju radikalnim političarem zbog koga ne veruju u skorašnji izraelsko – palestinski mir. Pored goleme superiornosti u poređenju sa arapskom stranom oseća se zamor od sukoba kako kod jevreja tako i kod arapa bar sam ja takav dojam stekao. Ubrzo smo seli u neki klub-kafe na otvorenom koji je bio krcat ljudima i u kome su se šotovi ispijali kao voda. Okolo su prolazili i odlazili njihovi zajednički prijatelji sa kojima sam se takodje upoznavao i koji su svi sa divljenjem reagovali na moj način putovanja (hm :( a ja mislio da je bar u ovako naprednijim društvima ovakav način putovanja ne iznenađujući) .... Sve u svemu ... energija je bila odlična pogotovo kada se uzmu u obzir nova poznanstva sa ovim ljudima koja nemaju cenu. Te noći sam spavao znatno bolje jer je Tomom cimer bio odsutan pa sam se uselio na jednu noć u njegovu sobu. Sutradan ujutru vreme je bilo da se ide dalje na istok. Pozdravio sam se sa Tomom on je bajkom otišao na fakultet a ja pešaka prema autobuskoj stanici za Jerusalim. Kako sam imao pregršt vremena a do Jerusalima je put svega sat vremena vožnje još malo sam švrljao po gradu. Do autobuske stanice se stiže slično kao i do železničke tako da je bilo veoma lako stići do nje. Stanica je potpuno zatvorenog tipa tako da je sve govoto „vakumirano“ što od strane same zgrade na čin mi se 4 sprata što od pretresa na ulazu i izlazu iz iste. Dakle sve je podređeno sugurnosnim merama kao i u Jerusalimu.

Jerusalim–Moly i Agard

Grad na koji sam dugo čekao. Prvi kontakt sa Jerusalimom malo je teže opisati pa ću taj deo preskočiti. Grad ima oko 700.000 stanovnika i zvanično je glavni grad Države Izrael. U Jerusalimu se nalazi predsednička rezidencija, skupština ili ti “Kneset” kao i rezidencija premijera. U Tel Avivu se nalaze ambasade i strana predstavništva. Grad sa zakonski predviđenom istom fasadnom ciglom na svim zgradama.Kako je dan bio fantastičan, ja imao pregršt vremena do dolaska mojih Jerusalimskih hostera sa posla kući nije mi bio problem da teglim rančeve i sve ostalno sa sobom peške. Kneset je bio najbliži pa sam njega obišao odmah i tamo malo odgluvario. Stari grad ujedno i najzanimljivija destinacija je bila na par kilometara hoda. Svakako da sam taj deo puta ostavio za posle kada sa istuširam i tako to tako da sam se uskoro zakucao u jedan obližno parkić u kome sam se raskomotio baš po svojoj meri. Nešto kasnije hosteri su mi poslali poruku da su stigli kući tako da sam se zaputio do već šmeknuti zgrade koja se nalazila da datoj mi adresi opet u blizini zgrade parlamenta – Kneseta. Na prvi pogled nice people što se i manje više potvrdilo. Pala je neka oskudna večera kratka spika i pad u improvizovani krevet za goste je bio pun pogodak. Sledeći dan je bio dan „D“. Muly se ponudio da me odbaci na motoru do starog grada i da samnom malo prožvrlja. Stari grad sačinjen iz jevrejske, muslimanske, hrišćanske i jermenske četvrti. Iz zapadnog (jevrejskog Jerusalima) u stari grad je najbliže ući preko Jaffa gejta što je ujedno i ulaz u jevrejsku četvrt. Svaka četvrt neodoljivo podseća na kulture društvenih zajednica čiji naziv i nosi. Zajedno sa Mulijem sam obišao crkvu svih nacija nedaleko od Maslinske gore. Nakon nje posetili smo naravno Zid plača ili ti Zapadni zid kako ga jevreji nazivaju. Pre samog prilaska zidu postavljeni su skeneri a i očekuje se od svakog ko prilazi zidu da koristi „kipu“ odnosno tradicionalnu jevrejsku kapicu koja se može uzeti na samom ulazu u prostor zida. Ineresantno je iskustvo videti sve te ljude koji sa toliko uzbuđenja čitaju pasuse iz Tore. Uglavom su to bili ortodoksni jevreju obučeni u crna odela sa crnim šeširima na glavi. Nakon Zida plača još smo se zajedno uputili do Crkve Hristovog vaskrsenja nakon koje je Muly zajahao motor i zbrisao kući jer je video da je Đavo odneo šalu zbog mojih bezbroj pitanja J ....mada će pre biti da je čovek stvarno imao mnogo posla pa je otišao da radi a meni je to i te kako odgovaralo J Hteo sam da ispipam svaki deo Jerusalima koji me je interesovao a bilo ih je dosta. U Crkvi Hristovog vaskrsenja sam se definitivno zadržao najduže jer je ona svakako centralno mesto u celom gradu. Crkva je spolja poprilično neprimetna gotovo skrivena iako se smatra najsvetijim mestom hrišćanstva. Arhitektura crkve iznutra je prosto fantastična. Deo crkve je pod „jurisdikcijom“ katoličkih sveštenika,  deo pod pravoslavnim grčkim sveštenicima, drugi deo su jermenski sveštenici a poslednji deo nisam siguran da li su koptski sveštenici. Dakle za svaki deo crkve zadužena je neka frakcija. U centralnom delu nalazi se bazilika koja je toliko mala da se u nju ulazi čučeći. Unutar nje prostor je površine oko 2m² a predstavlja mesto gde je Isus Hrist sahranje a zatim i vaskrsao.Na ulazak se čeka nekih desetak minuta. Još jedna od interesantnih mesta stvari je ulica Rosa Dolores koja je deo trase koju je Isus prošao na putu to Maslinske gore gde je bio razapet. Muslimanski (arapski) deo starog grada je prostor koji me je neodoljivo podsećao na Siriju. Godila ljudi koji idu u jednom smeru, urlanje i ni traga od jevrejske uglađenosi. Lako je bilo prisetiti se Sirije. Istočni deo Jerusalima je donekle jeftiniji od zapadnog i definitivno bar delom podseća na Najlon pijacu. Naravno na svakom koraku je do zuba naoružana policija. Muly i Agar su mi u napred najavili da ćemo uveče ići zajedno na Shabat evening kod njihovih prijatelja na večeru. Šabat traje od petka uveče do subote uveče kad u Izraelu ne radi bukvano n.i.š.t.a. A ko radi niko mu neće doću narednih nedelju dana od mušterija. Ovo je bilo definitivno najbolje iskustvo koje sam na celom putu imao a kada su odnosi sa ljudima u pitanju. Fora je da se svakog petka prijatelji organizuju i okupljaju kod nekog u gajbi gde proslavljaju početak Šabata. Svako donese po nešto za piće ili klopu i onda to malo postane puno u najmanju ruku sasvim dovoljno. To je bio definitivni Bingo kada je upoznavanje lokalaca bilo u pitanju. Klopa je bila odlična, ali ono što mi je ostavilo ubedljivo najveći utisak bila je molitva. Da molitva. Nisu to bili nekakvi radikalni i zadrti jevreji. U jednom trenutku su svi ustali a dečko u čijoj se kući tog vikenda pravila proslava je na veoma opušten i lep način pročitao par redova iz Tore tj. jevrejskog svetog pisma posle koga su ljudi uz osmeh i vino nazdravili u čast praznika. Iskustvo invaluable! :) Tu sam upoznao neke dve nemice na razmeni ili tako nešto, koje su bile u najmanju ruku izrazito ne simpatične. Posle se čak I gitara pustila u rad tako da je celo veče bilo f.a.n.t.a.s.t.i.č.n.o. :) Noć je bila topla i naravno suva bez kiše. Nešto posle ponoći smo otišli kuće, u ostalom sutra sam kretao dalje putem za Palestinu. Kako je sledeći dan bila subota, kod jevreja subotom ništa nije radilo pa tako ni autobuska stanica, ALI kako sam se informisao i pre samog puta arapi rade kao besni i to gde drugdne nego u istočnom Jerusalimu i to gde drugdne nego za Palestinske teritorije. Pozdravio sam se sa Muly i Agar iako sam im rekao da se možda vidimo i sutra for any case jel mi niko nije odgovorio za host u još nekim mestima u Palestini.

Palestila – Bethehem (Vitlejem)

Uvatio sam bus iz arapskog dela Jerusalima i krenuo za Betlehem (Vitlejem) grad udaljen svega 15-tak kilometara od Jerusalima ali se za ova dva grada može slobodno reći „tako blizu tako daleko”. U busu imaju wi-fi : ) uau …. Tako da su tu u odnosu na nas ispred čak i oni. Autobus je putovao znatno duže nego što se očekivalo. Ulazak u Plestinu odnosno izlazak iz teritorija koji kontrolišu izraelske snage je mačiji kašalj.

Palestina se administrativno sastoji iz Zapadne obale i Gaze kao što većina zna. Zapadna obala nije onakva kako je to predstavljeno na mapama na internetu ili šta slično. Ova Palestinska oblast se sastotoji iz teritorijalnih jedinica (zona) različitog stepena nadležnosti jedne odnosno druge strane u sukobu. Čak 75% Zapadne obale je pod direktnom upravom države Izrael i to u svakom pogledu. Vojno, policijski kao i administrativno. To je takozvana zona A. Zona B obuhvata teritoriju koja je pod vojnom i policijskom upravom države Izraela ali je Palestincima verovatno forme radi dati administrativna vlast. Da li tu spada i sudsto nisam siguran. Najmanji deo Zapadne obale predstavljaju odvojene urbane teritorije koje su ograđene visokim zidovima i bodljikavom žicom u kojima Palestinci imaju potpunu vlast. Naravno po meni je to živa komedija. Ovo je zona C i teritorijalno predstavlja tek 15-20% od i ovako premale Zapadne obale. Naravno istočni deo Zapadne obale, tačnije Mrtvo more i granica sa Jordanom su pod kompletnom upravom Izraela što se lako dalo za primetiti kada sam išao posle u taj region. Dakle Betlehem je teritorijalna jedinica pod kompletnom Palestinskom vlašću što podrazumeva da se „provlačimo“ ispod „gvozdene zavese“. Palestina nema tehničkih mogućnosti za samostalnu viznu politiku tako da ne možete ući ili izaći iz Palestine a da se niste bar očešali sa Izraelom. Svim stanovnicima zone C neophodna je viza za ulazak u teritorije koje su pod Izraelskom kontrolom sve jedno jesu li one u Izraelu ili Zapadnoj obali. Ulazak je dakle protekao veoma opušteno. Ček-point je zanimljiviji ako ukoliko ulazite u izraelski teritorij nego ako izlazite iz njega. Na izlazu nije bio nikakvih zaustavljanja. Autobus je posle svih vijuganja i krivudanja stigao u ovaj grad koji je mesto rođenja Isusa Hrista. Moj hoster u Betlehemu nije živeo u smom gradu već malo izvan njega. Svakako da mi je šetanje prijali, tako da sam nakon uspešne misije „odlepljivanja“ domaćih taksista sa sebe nastavio još par kilometara peške kroz grad. Na trenutke sam zastajao uglavnom na najuvrnutijim mestima za to i na koji minut uživao u trenutku, u ljudima, u slikama i naravno u zadovoljstu jer sam konačno uspeo ono što sam toliko dugo želeo. Betlehem je malo kao i svi Palestinski gradovi cirka 25.000. Administrativno sedište palestinske samouprave je Ramala i sa tek nešto više stanovnika. Deo grada koji sam tražio zvao se Bet Saur. Kao i svuda lako sam se snašao i našao Adhanovu zgradu. Lik tipa 32 godina, hrišćanin, proputovao pola svet tako da moram priznati da nije bio najbolji reprezent prosečnog stanovnika ovih krajeva. Adhan je imao i državljanstvo Hondurasa (hehe) sa kojim bi po pravilu imao mogućnos da putuje u Izrael ali oćeš ga majci .... nema šanse ješe su ješe razumeju se u look up i u imena. Čovek živi u stanu od cirke 120m² sa cimerom. Njih dvojica su otvorili piceriju u kojoj sam proveo to veče sa njima i još par njihovih prijatelja.  Sivilo i prašina Arabik-landova mi je uvek bila odbojna tako da sam na umu imao samo par tačaka koje trebam da obiđem do sutra. Nakon ostavljanja stvari u hosterovom stanu, on mi dade ključ i ode nešto svojim poslom. Ja sam se denuo u centar grada i do crkve koja je podignuta na mestu rodjena Isusa Hrista (tzv. Chearch of nativity). Objekat star više od 1500 godina u svakom slučaju mi je imao zadivljujuću energiju iako je njegova rekonstrukcija bila u punom jeku. U centralnom delu crkve se nalazi ulaz u malu podzemnu prostoriju, sveto mesto koje najpreciznije određuje mesto Isusovog rođenja. Nakon crkve još sam se malo prošetao unaokolo po starom jezgru grada i naravno seo na humus u neki polu fensi restoran na centralnom gradskom trgu. Ubrzo je pao mrak a kako me je Adhan već pozvao da svratim u piceriju koju su držali on I njegov prijatelj to sam i uradio. Naravno picerija nije u onom smisli reči koji mi poznajemo. Tu sam upoznao još neke njihove prijatelje tako da je bilo generalno gledano sjajno. Svi ljudi koje sam upoznao bio je što se kaže fin neki svet. Svi su se žalili na situaciju u kojoj žive a pogotovo na nemogućnost kretanja jerim je viza neophodna za svaki korak koji naprave, što van palestinskih teritorija što u npr. Jerusalim koji je udaljen svega 15-tak kilometara na sever. Sutra ujutru počeo je my long day jer sam trebao da se dokopam Mrtvog mora moje poslednje destinacije. Ustao sam pre mojih domaćina, kratku poruku sam ostavio sa ključevima na stolu (kako smo se i dogovorili) i sačekao Viky Adhanovu prijateljicu koja mi se ponudila za prevoz do Jerusalima jer je imala neka posla tamo (Viky je imala dozvolu za ulazak u Izrael za raziku od drugih a usto je bila i Jermenka). Do Jerusalima sam se morao vratiti jer je odatle jedino bilo moguće uvatiti prevoz do Ein Gedija mesta na obali mrtvog mora gde su mi svi rekli da bi bilo definitivno najbolje da odem da se brčnem. Tako mala zemlja a tako puno nevidljivih linija koje na koje čovek treba da obraća pažnju. Sve je tako blizu a zapravo je tako daleko. U Jerusalimu sam ubrzo ušao u bus. Klinci vojnici na redovnom odsluženju vojnog roka su bili na sve strane u busu sa pozamašnim naoružanjem. Svi su izašli negde u sred pustinje nedaleko od Mrtvog mora. Kontam da su se denuli na neku vežbu ili i šta ja znam. U svakom slučaju bilo interesantno posmatrati ljude tek punoletne sa kompletnom ratnom optemom u sred međugradskog autobusa, pogotovo devojke. Ubrzo smo stigli na mesto koje je trebalo da predstavlja krajnje odredište Ein Gedi. Ispostavilo se da je to bilo i manje ni više nego najobičnija raskrsnica puteva u čijoj blizini se nalazioi izraelski ček point koji je usmeravao i propuštao buseve. Svi stranci koji smo izašli iz autobusa smo bili pomalo zbunjeni. Očekivalo smo nešto sasvim dugo. More je bilo na nekih 200-tinak metara od nas sa leve strane  nismo imali ideju da li se tu uopšte može kupati pa čak i kako prići do vode. Pitali smo vojnika na pointu gde može da se kupa, rekao je da je oficijalno zabranjeno kupanje ali se on kao domorodac iz okoline i sam kupa u blizini. Kako je temperature verovatno bila najviša koji sam imao prilike da doživim od kada sam se rodio rešio sam se da po bilo koju cenu uletim u more i da se bar rashladim. To su rešili i jedak Kanadjanin i jednan Francuz takodje iz mog busa. Obojica zasebno na proputovanju svetom a obojica su mladja od mene tipa 5 godina kako se sećam. Eh taj open mind zapad. Pogled na najslanije more na svetu kao i na najnižu tačku na kugli zemaljskoj (-400m nadmorske visine(nizine)) izgleda kao pogled nabilo koje more koje sam video do sada. Provlačili smo se kroz neki napušten kompleks u blizini obale i konačno smo se dovukli do nepristupačne kamenite obale. Ubrzo smo se ubacili u vodu koja nam je bila više bitna zbog hladjenja nego zbog kakvog saliniteta …..ali ubrzo je fizika učinila svoje. Noge su krenule da nam isplivavaju na površunu. Sve u svemu ….nismo mogli da potonemo :  ) Kupali smo se u Mrtvom moru. U našoj blizini je bilo još jedno troje nemaca koji su upravo izlazili iz vode i bežali negde u hlad i čini mi se neki momak i devojka valjda rusi. Plivanje u Mrtvom moru je ipak s jedne strane neprijatno zbog stalne bojazni da ti voda ni jedna kap vode ne uđe u oči. Voda je toliko slana da vam sama pomisao da jedna kapljica upadne u oko podilazi jeza. Isparenja same vode malo štipaju oči o ostalom da ne govorim. Voda je jednostavno preslana I nije ni malo prijatna čak i kada  vam samo malo udje u usta. Na drugoj obali se nazirao Jordan. Dakle bili smo u graničnom području. Upravo iz tog razloga smo svakih par minuta imali priliku da prisustvujemo spektakularnom nadletanju izraelskih migova koji su stvarali zaglušujuću buku. Eh šta ti je Bliski istok. Sve to je bio podsetnik u kom delu sveta se nalazimo. Nisam gledao na sat ali mislim da se generalno nismo zadržali dugo u vodi. Tuševa nije bilo nigde što se posle pokazalo da mi nije predstavljalo nikakav problem za divno čudo. Pokupili smo se i nekako pobegli u gotovo jedini hlad ispod nadstrešnice autobuske stanice. Ubrzo je došao kombi. U kombiju je sa nama putovala i jedna žena iz Palestine inače francuski prevodilac za grupe turista koji je ispratila. Od nje smo u vožnji do Jerusalima saznali gotovo sve što nas je interesovalo o običajima i istoriji ovog podneblja a koja nas je dodatno zanimala. U medjuvremenu sam se čuo za Agar i Mulijem koji su mi reklii da bez problema mogu doći do njih i prenoćiti još jednu noć koju nisam ni planirao da provedem u Jerusalimu. Svakako da im je moje iskustvo bilo interesantno iz mnogo razloga pogotovo jer u Palestinskim teritorijam nikada nisu bili niti smeju da idu. Bio sam crknut … malo smo u još spikali i koma krevet. Sutra ujutru je osvanuo poslednji dan mog putovanja. Uveče u 20h sam imao let za Peštu. U Jerusalimu mi je ostalo još da vidim Jadlešem ili ti izraelski naziv za muzej Hlokausta koji se nalazi na periferiji grada. Čini mi se da sam zbog vremena obišao tek mali deo ovog ogromnog zdranja ali dobro. Uhvatio sam bus oko 4h za Ben Gurion airport i tamo bio već oko 5h. Dakle 3 sata pre leta kao što svi sugerišu po forumima. Kontrola znatno rigoroznija nego na ulasku. Nije nikome do kraja jasno zašto je ponekad teže izaći iz Izraela nego ući u njega, ali sam siguran da njihove sigurnosne službe itekako znaju šta rade. Prva “sačekuša” naskeniranju prtljaga, 101 pitanje, zašto si bio, gde si bio, sa kim si bio... u sam dobio na poleđini pasoša čuvenu nalepnicu sa bar kodom čiji prvi broj od 1-7 označava koliko treba da obrate paznju na vas. Jas am dobio 5 što sam manje više I očekivao. Sedmica je najgora, jedinica je najbezazlenija. Sledeća sačekuša posle pasoške kontrole. U napred sam znao da ću im biti zanimljiv zbog mog broja 5. Izdvojili su me iz reda stavili me da sednem da sačekam dok me ne prozovu. Kada je došao i red na mene jedna mlada carinica (cenim mladja od mene) zavirila je bukvalno u svaki kutak moga ranca. Kako sam u torbi imao svakakve suvenire iz Palestine i poklon dzepni Kuuran bio sam zadržan još neko vreme na kratkom ispitianju. Naravno da sam imao u vidu sve to tako da sam u prvi plan stavio suvenire sa izraelskim tematikom poput zastavice itd. Mislim da me zbog toga nisu urnisali kako bi moglo biti. I na kraju baš kako mi je i rečeno, sve je trajalo tipa dva ipo sata. U avionu sam sedeo pored dvoje mladih jevreja koji su išli na svoj medeni mesec u Budimpeštu. Avion je poleteo a Izrael je ostao iza mene kao moje najbolje putovanje ikada.

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